Will My Puppy Grow Out Of This? Early Intervention For Behavior Issues

Will My Puppy Grow Out Of This? Early Intervention For Behavior Issues

As a veterinarian in general practice, seeing a brand new puppy for a wellness check-up is one of my favorite parts of the job.

(I’d wager this is true for most vets – ask anyone!)

Puppies are cute, and obnoxious, and very, very busy.  They sniff all around the exam room, jump up to say hello, and try their best to eat my shoelaces.  They chew on my stethoscope while I auscult their hearts.  They eat treats eagerly when offered, and shove their noses into my scrub pockets to look for crumbs.

They turn over the wastebasket, or get excited and pee on the floor.

These things are normal, and they make me happy.

Or, they’re calm and drowsy and snuggly, like a toddler at naptime.  They wake up long enough to lick my fingers on the exam table, yawn luxuriously, and fall asleep on the scale.  They cuddle happily in my lap while we talk about vaccination schedules, microchips, and heartworm prevention.

This is normal too – a different kind of normal, for a different kind of pup.

A solid 90% of my puppy visits fall into one of these two categories.  Normal puppies, doing normal puppy things.  Exploring their world, making friends with anything that moves, or snoozing contentedly through whatever happens around them.

If your puppy is like this, congratulations!  You’re in great shape.  Keep doing what you’re doing.

Sign up for a good puppy class, invest in some puzzle toys, and keep up with socialization – but you’re off and running in the right direction.  Odds are good that your pup will turn out to be a stable, friendly member of the family.

BUT.

What about the other 10%?

These are puppies who are NOT doing normal puppy things.  At 8 or 10 weeks old, they are cowering under the chair in the corner of the exam room.  They are petrified of me, and my friendly voice, and my offers of tasty string cheese.  They yelp in terror when I touch them, or hide their head in their owner’s arms and shake uncontrollably while I check their hearts and feel their bellies.

Or they bark at me when I enter the room, and regard me suspiciously from a distance.  They might eat a treat tossed on the floor, or not, but their demeanor doesn’t change.  On the exam table, when I try to look in their ears or touch their mouth, they give me a hard stare and a long, low growl.  They need a muzzle to safely administer their first set of vaccines, because they make serious attempts to bite the staff.

In such a young puppy, these things are emphatically NOT NORMAL.

So if this sounds like your puppy, what should you do?

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And that brings us, finally, to today’s topic.  How concerned should we be about these “red flag” puppies, and are they likely to get better as they grow up?

(Spoiler alert: unfortunately, no – not without help.)

So, first – a few facts.

Over the past several years, studies¹² on puppy behavior in the veterinary clinic have provided evidence of what clinical experience has told us for decades.  First – while most puppies fall somewhere along the spectrum of normal behavior, there are a small percentage of outliers who show unusual signs of anxiety, aggression, or other issues at a very young age.

Second, and perhaps more importantly – these “outlier” puppies do NOT tend to significantly change their behavior as they get older.  In practical terms, this means that fearful, aggressive, or otherwise atypical pups are very likely to grow into fearful or aggressive adults.

This is a critical point to understand – and really, truly believe – if you happen to have a puppy who shows these early red flags.

In my clinic, I try very hard to have honest conversations with the owners of these pups.  We talk about being proactive, and intervening early to help their puppy overcome these issues.  But sadly, it’s rare for anyone to take the problem very seriously.

And really, who can blame them?

They’ve just brought home their fluffy bundle of joy, and the entire family is head over heels in love with their new pup.  Sure, maybe he’s a little nervous about seeing the vet, but that’s normal – right?  And maybe he growled at the neighbor when she tried to say hi, and wets himself in fear whenever a car drives slowly by on their quiet suburban street.

Surely, he’ll grow out of it.  He’s so young and cute, right now.  They’ll sign him up for a training class or something when he’s older, if it becomes a problem.

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What I’m here to tell you today, is that this is wishful thinking – and it simply isn’t true.

No, he won’t grow out of it.  It’s a problem NOW, and it will be a bigger one in the future – don’t “wait and see” how things go.

I see these puppies again when they’re a year old, and have just bitten a visiting relative.  Or at 18 months for their first adult wellness visit, when they can’t be touched or examined without injectable sedation.  Or when they’ve just turned two years, and their owner wants to rehome them because they can’t walk on a leash without barking and lunging at anything that moves.

These outcomes make me sad.

Let me be clear – it doesn’t have to be this way.  We can do much better for these puppies.

But first, we have to admit that there’s a problem, and be willing to take it seriously.

So how can you tell if your puppy is at risk, and what should you do about it?  We’ll close out today’s post by talking about each of these questions in turn.

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Let’s look at a few hypothetical scenarios in the life of a young puppy, less than four months old.  For each one, I’ll give an example of three types of responses:

GREEN = normal behavior, no need to worry. 😊  May need training to work on basic manners or specific skills, but no serious concerns.

YELLOW = keep an eye on this.  May be fairly easy to improve with some basic socialization and positive training.  If not, ask for help!

RED = concerning!  Puppy kindergarten or basic obedience training will NOT fix this.  Needs referral to a professional for comprehensive treatment plan.

Trimming puppy’s nails with treats and gentle restraint

  • GREEN = wiggling, curious, friendly; or standing quietly, willing to eat treats
  • YELLOW = freezing, growling, or struggling to get away
  • RED = biting, or serious attempt to bite (NOT puppy mouthing); yelping or screaming in fear

Walking past the food bowl while puppy is eating

  • GREEN = no reaction
  • YELLOW = eating faster, freezing, or hunching over bowl
  • RED = snarling, lunging, attempting to bite

Greeting a friendly stranger on a walk

  • GREEN = approaching eagerly with loose, wiggly body language
  • YELLOW = worried at first, hanging back or hiding; but warms up quickly and is happy to greet
  • RED = hiding behind owner, shaking, cowering; or barking and lunging at stranger

Playing with another puppy (assuming similar age and energy level)

  • GREEN = friendly and happy to interact, matches intensity level to playmate, both pups having fun
  • YELLOW = gets overly aroused and bullies playmate; or acts fearful and unsure
  • RED = aggressive behavior with injuries to other pup

A caveat – these assessments aren’t set in stone!  Every situation is different, so it’s hard to give black-and-white guidelines that hold true 100% of the time.  You may be able to think of exceptions to these rules, which is fine.  If you’re unsure, have a professional evaluate your pup and help you decide whether you have reason to be concerned.

But in general, you’ll notice a running theme – young puppies, less than 16 weeks old, should be relatively fearless about the world.  They should be friendly with strangers and other dogs, and they should not show any “grown up” aggressive behavior like snarling, lunging, or serious biting.

Your pup may well become more reserved around people and less tolerant of annoyances as he reaches adolescence and adulthood, which can be perfectly normal.

But right now, he’s just a baby – if he’s not acting like one, something is wrong.

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So if your puppy has any “RED” behaviors, what should you do?

First of all, don’t panic!  This doesn’t mean your new best friend is a lost cause, or that he’s doomed to a life of unmanageable fear and aggression.

Realistic long-term goals for these pups will vary quite a bit depending on their background, the underlying reasons for their fearful or aggressive behavior, and the owner’s ability to work on the problem – but in most cases, there’s a lot we can do to help.

What does this mean, exactly?

The most important take-away from today’s post is that these puppies need professional intervention as soon as the problem is recognized.  Not in six months, or a year – NOW.

Unfortunately, signing up for puppy kindergarten or taking a basic training class isn’t enough.  Neither is a private lesson with an obedience instructor, or reading a book on how to raise a puppy.

Instead, make an appointment with a behavior professional who has experience dealing with fear issues in dogs.  This might be a veterinary behaviorist, a general practice veterinarian who’s well-versed in behavior, an applied animal behaviorist, or even a trainer who has additional education and experience in working with dog behavior problems.

Here are a few resources, if you need help finding someone qualified in your area:

An appropriate treatment plan for a puppy with serious behavior issues at a young age will likely include a systematic desensitization/counter-conditioning (DS/CC) plan to work on things that are scary to them, reward-based training to teach more appropriate behavioral responses for situations that cause discomfort or frustration, and maybe even medication to help reduce their fear and make it easier for them to learn and develop normally.

So, it’s not the end of the world.  There are always things we can do.

But the sooner you get started, the better your chances of success.


1: Godbout, Martin et al. “Puppy behavior at the veterinary clinic: A pilot study.” Journal of Veterinary Behavior. (2007)
2: Godbout, Martin and Frank, Diane.  “Persistence of puppy behaviors and signs of anxiety during adulthood.” Journal of Veterinary Behavior. (2011)

8 thoughts on “Will My Puppy Grow Out Of This? Early Intervention For Behavior Issues

  1. As Veterinary Behaviorists, can you all please get together and expand your thoughts on training and socialization to all general practitioner veterinarians. I am still having many puppy families that hear from their first vet visit that they should keep their puppy at home and isolated until they are through all vaccines. The latest one was a 12 week vaccine appointment and their vet told them the puppy shouldn’t go outside until it had all of it’s vaccines! They were having trouble getting the puppy to potty and poop on a potty pad inside their home when they reached out to me and I found out about it! This puppy had just completed three weeks of professional training and socialization (with other dogs and outside, not in a bubble) and was house-broken to the outside! He was so confused! It’s so hard to fight vets like this because they are “professionals”. Please please break through to them the importance of early and safe socialization and training. I love your advise, your blogs, your book, your training style! I wish that all vets were required to take classes in training and socialization and that it could be made to be a part of their CE hours. It’s critical to helping our pets be as awesome as they can be from the beginning. Life with our pets just isn’t about health care only, and if we can get their support at the vet visits, just like we support health care and going to the vet, it would be a more complete circle of care to benefit everyone. Thank you for your awesome and diligent work in spreading this important information to all! I enjoy and look forward to each of your posts!

    1. I definitely share your frustration about this! The good news is, behavior lectures are becoming increasingly common at major veterinary conferences and CE meetings, and the importance of early puppy socialization is a common theme.

      The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) does have a position statement that is made available to all veterinarians as well as the general public, recommending that puppies start getting “out and about”, including starting puppy kindergarten classes, at 7-8 weeks of age. I do think that this knowledge is becoming more widespread in our field, slowly but surely. 🙂

  2. It can be more subtle— we experienced a poodle puppy that became extremely anxious with any touch, was car reactive from 9 weeks and became progressively more anxious and reactive, and developed OCD tail chasing at 4 months that became incessant by 6 months.

    He had a trainer and consultations with a well qualified behaviorist, and then developed unpredictable aggressive behavior toward humans on prozac at 6 months.

    He was bred by a vet who prides herself on breeding for health and yet, in retrospect, the other puppies in his litter were unwilling to be touched at 8 weeks. He didn’t tolerate touch, yet wanted some proximity to us and it was heartbreaking. Our instincts told us that a puppy who shrank from touch wasn’t a good choice but we deferred to the expert— the veterinarian breeder.

    He also had pan colitis and an endoscopy at 4 months, special diet and a GI specialist.

    So despite socializing, prompt veterinary care, good trainers and behaviorists, he couldn’t be managed in a way that made him safe for our family. He didn’t resource guard, show overt fear, played well with other puppies but did become increasingly anxious with touch, grooming and his tail chasing became nearly constant and the attacks on people became more violent and random.

    Our daughter is an autism specialist and his regression reminded her of her students and we tried counter conditioning without success.

    Our previous dog was a rescue, Aussie/ shepherd mix with fear issues from 10 weeks that responded so well to confidence building, support and management and was a great dog for the 13+ years we were lucky to have her.

    The dog prior was a purebred shepherd with hip dysplasia and fear aggression on the leash— managed well for 14+ years.

    Our current dog is a lab from a local shelter and your podcast on socializing was so timely and helpful: we shared it with the shelter trainer. We were able to get her at 8 weeks. She adores the vacuum, thanks to you. I don’t think we were as successful with nail clipping, but she’s the type to fall asleep on the exam table.

    While trying to figure out the poodle. I read “The Education of Will”— and every other book I could find, and was struck by the description of Will at 8 weeks— all red flags.

    Thank you for your blog, podcast and book.

    1. I’m very sorry to hear about your poodle pup – how sad for everyone involved! Your story is a reminder that unfortunately, even with dedicated owners who do everything right, some behavioral issues simply aren’t fixable. It sounds like you did everything possible to give this puppy a chance at a good outcome, but his brain just wasn’t wired right for life with a human family.

      Sometimes this is evident from the very beginning, and sometimes not – but certainly, the more we know about these behavioral “red flags,” the better we can do at predicting which pups might benefit from professional help at an early age.

      This doesn’t always result in a happy ending, as your story illustrates. But at least you know that you tried your very best.

      I’m glad you’ve found the blog, podcast, and book helpful, and that your current shelter girl is doing well. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences. <3

  3. It would be very interesting to see what our now 13 year old Habi was like as a very young pup. We adopted her at 3, when she already had a huge amount of baggage, and it’s been an “interesting”, very educational, and ultimately extremely rewarding journey. By the time she came to us, her attitude was basically “whatever it is, it’s undoubtedly bad”. Our behavioral vet suspects genetics had a great deal to do with it. We’ll never know, and it didn’t matter to the prescribed treatment plan, but I’ve always wondered about her parents, their environment, and early handling.

    After our experience, this post really makes sense. Had she received early and appropriate intervention, her life might have been a lot easier. Though, in that case, she wouldn’t have ended up in a shelter and we would have missed out on a life-changing (for all of us) exploration of finding joy.

    Thank you for once again a thought-provoking and fascinating post!

    1. I’m glad you enjoyed it! With dogs who come from a shelter or rescue environment, we often don’t know much about their early history. Fortunately, as you say, it doesn’t really impact their treatment plan one way or the other – but I agree that it would be fascinating to have the answers.

      Glad to hear that Habi is doing well these days. Finding joy isn’t an easy thing for a fearful dog, but it makes the journey so very worth it, doesn’t it?

  4. Hiya, Thanks for such an informative blog post. I recently became the mother of an 8 week old puppy retriever. He is great however there are a few things that need to be ironed out before it gets out of hand. A few of the things you mentioned here, really describes his behaviour.

    I would take up a professional for the help but they always seem overpriced and really expensive. I recently read a blog post about an online training course that seemed really genuine:https://www.retrieversareus.com/brain-training-for-dogs-review. But Im not sure it is and I wanted an experts advice on wether I should explore this avenue first before throwing cash into professional assistance.

    Would really appreciate any help you can provide as its now something that I need to take action on. Thank in advance!

    1. I’m not familiar with that particular program, so I’m afraid I can’t recommend it one way or the other.

      As I mentioned in the post, serious behavioral red flags like aggression or anxiety in puppies really need to be addressed by a professional who has experience dealing with these issues – so I would recommend seeing a veterinary behaviorist or similarly qualified person who can assess your pup and help you put together an appropriate treatment plan.

      Feel free to contact me privately and let me know where you’re located, if you wish. I would be happy to try and suggest someone in your area who could help.

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